In the fall, cut off the blossoms and hang them in plastic bags to dry. Ideally, they should be completely dry before they are planted. Dry the Seeds After HarvestingĪfter harvesting your coneflower seeds, be sure to dry them thoroughly.
Once the seeds have been stored in a jar, you can plant them the next spring. They can survive in this condition for up to a year. The seeds should fall out of the paper bag. You can do this by using a kitchen strainer and carefully placing the seed head toward the bottom of the paper bag. The seeds of the coneflower are small and triangular in shape, and you’ll need to separate them from the darkened parts before you can save them.
Then, you can plant your seedlings anywhere! It doesn’t matter where you’re going to plant them, as long as you have a seed sack, you’ll be able to harvest a healthy crop every time! Using a kitchen strainer, separate the seeds from the plant debris. Once you’ve extracted the coneflower seeds, you’ll need to separate them from the rest of the plant. The process is quick and easy, and you can reap the rewards as soon as the flowers are in bloom! To plant them the following year, simply pluck the seed heads from their stalks and pop them in your garden. The seeds can be stored for up to a year. More on this later.Īfter a month, the seeds will last in the refrigerator and can be planted next spring. Once you have collected your coneflower seeds, you can store them in a plastic bucket, paper sack, or shallow cardboard box. Once you separate the chaff from the coneflower seeds, you’ll have a clean, dry seed packet. You can do this using a kitchen strainer. To collect the seeds, you must first separate the bright white parts from the dark ones. They look like rice grains, but they are actually tiny, black cones hidden deep within the flower. I'm still working on that issue.The seeds of the coneflower are small and triangular in shape. I do have a problem with the mites or whatever it is getting to the new babies. I keep inside on kitchen table to sprouting, partly as I can watch them, then put out in sheltered spot. Try to get them going and potted before frost. I do more perennials in the summer when space is freed up. As most are 2nd year to bloom, doesn't matter when to start during the year. If started in Jan, the regular purple may bloom 1st year (according to seed packet). Once up, if they make go to qt pots, or could go in ground. From peat pellet, put in 4" pot, usually MG potting mix (hey it's easy and works!). I try to water with Johns Recipe about 1/week until ready to bump up. The purples usually germinate fairly easy, others not so much. From frig go to space on kitchen table by window and a couple of extra regular lights. Regular purple 3 weeks should do, the others I leave chilled longer (TN, Glade, yellow, pallida). Soak pellets, plant seeds, put in veggie drawer of frig with the top set off center. Duh! I use peat pellets, 12 in the small tray. Starting from seed - This can be done with the natives, but most likely not with the hybrids. Give each space, as hopefully they will grow and spread! If you found bare root to buy, plant in ground and should bloom this season, as they are already in their 2nd year.
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